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Jacobean Crewelwork

Katie Bell

After receiving my results from our first term I can finally update with my blog.

It was in at the deep end and a very intensive Autumn Term, yet invaluable learning the foundations of this technique and countless new stitches.


Our first module on the Professional Embroidery Tutor Programme was to design and work a well-balanced style crewelwork embroidery using traditional elements. Stitched on linen twill and using Appleton's crewel work, we are tasked with understanding this traditional style, the different stitches and incorporating appropriate elements into our design.


With the overall design was within A4 (21x30cm) and working two main colours in five shades and an accent colour in two shades.


Design

My inspiration came from watching swallows swooping to catch flies whilst on holiday. I felt their aerodynamic appearance could be interesting to translate in stitch form (little did I appreciate the challenge this would pose me). I added the dragonfly and circular running stitch to depict the scene.


I included a pomegranate as recognisable Jacobean motif, a tree with an opening rather than a solid trunk (I felt this would lift my design). I took inspiration from various book/online references to complete my design.


I selected ochre and teal colours as I find them cheerful and bold and hope they are sympathetic to Jacobean traditions.



I tweaked my design latterly, as I realised adding smaller details would enhance and be fun to do e.g: the multi-colour French knots inside the buttonhole stitch; the Whipped Chain in graduating coloured threads either side of the trunk and branch; the Fly and Seeding inside the dragonfly wings. Looking at Version 1 design (26th Sept) I had not even considered these smaller details. I honestly felt for the first six weeks of the term I was working blind -  I did not know what stitches to do first or which ones worked well together.



Which aspects of the technique did you enjoy?

I enjoyed completing the trunk in Raised Chain Band and Raised Stem Stitch and the weaving stitches, plus the Whipped Chain on the edges.


Once I got into my stride, I enjoyed looking on RSN Stitch-bank, incorporating new stitches and realising that I could add more details.



What did you find challenging and how did you solve any problems?

The most challenging parts for me were a) not knowing how to put a Stitch Plan together, b) what order to stitch elements, c) not knowing what stitches complemented one another.


I had taken Stitch Bank instructions literally with Raised Stem Band, bringing the needle up from the bottom (with the knot on, rather than knot on top and locking stitches). I had to re-do the whole trunk and branch.


Taking my time and persevering through my difficulties proved the most valuable lesson. I had significant surgery at the end of November, so didn’t do much for 3 weeks. But, I was fortunate to be able to catch up gradually over the Christmas break. That helped me evaluate my work and gain a realistic sense of how I could be more methodical, stitch effectively – therefore not making as many mistakes.






 

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